catch movement picks up steam
By KIRK ROSS
Coastal Review Online
with a catchy name has been the easy part.
Fishing families in North Carolina have faced plenty of challenges in
the past few decades — from adapting to tighter regulations to heavy
competition from foreign fishing fleets and farmed products. For
leaders in the state’s growing local-catch movement, which aims to keep
North Carolina’s fishing traditions alive, the big challenge ahead is
getting the rest of us to remember that “buy local” applies to seafood,
Last month, local-catch leaders gathered in Carteret County to look at
ways to spread the word about North Carolina seafood.
The Feb. 22 Local Catch Summit, sponsored by North Carolina Sea Grant
and Saltwater Connections, drew about 25 representatives from North
Carolina’s four local-catch groups — Carteret Catch, Brunswick Catch,
Ocracoke Fresh and Outer Banks Catch — and North Carolina Catch, a newly
formed umbrella organization.
The main aim of the conference was to assist the groups with the nuts
and bolts of messaging, branding and using the Internet and social
networks to reach out to new customers and better connect with their
regulars. The gathering was also a first in that it gave local
organizers from up and down the coast a chance to meet and swap ideas.
Since the first local-catch group, Carteret Catch, debuted at the N.C.
Seafood Festival in 2005, the groups have focused on getting more local
seafood in restaurants and on kitchen tables on the coast.
Connie Mason, one of Carteret Catch’s founders, pointed out at the
conference that surveys of coastal visitors show not just a strong
preference for local seafood, but an expectation that when they order
something in a restaurant that’s what they’re getting.
Carteret’s campaign to encourage customers to ask for local seafood,
which employs everything from billboards to Facebook and YouTube, has
helped convince more places to add local items to their menus.
“When they have more of their clientele asking, it puts more pressure
on them to serve local seafood,” she said.
As the local-catch groups look beyond their communities, Mason and
others say consumer demand will play an important role in expanding
into the state’s larger markets.
Jon Haag, a fisherman who operates a wholesale
and retail business on Oak Island in Brunswick County and a board
member of the recently formed Brunswick Catch, is convinced that for
fishing communities to survive they’ll have to work together to promote
local seafood beyond their borders.
“I grew up on the water. Everybody who grew up on the water is trying
to figure out how to make it,” Haag said. “Everybody’s scrambling to
Fishing used to be all about volume and wholesale markets, but now,
Haag said, the economic model he and others are trying to perfect
borrows from the successes of local agriculture efforts, working more
closely with restaurants and retail outlets and putting a special
emphasis on educating consumers.
More and more people want to know where their food comes from, Haag
says, and he does everything he can to teach customers about different
species and let them know where and when the fish in the shop were
“The truth is critical,” he said. “It’s also the commercial fisherman’s
best selling point to customers willing to put a premium on quality. We
have to get the message out there. The fact is that this is
wholesome and natural a product as there is on the planet.”
Bill Rice is owner of Fishtowne in Beaufort and founder of Walking
Fish, the state’s first community-supported fishery. The program
attempts to connect local fishermen to a local market. Members pre-pay
for a “season” of fresh, locally caught seafood, and in turn fishermen
provide a weekly share of premium fish or shellfish. The goal,
according to the Walking Fish website, is to “reconnect communities
with their food system, encourage low-impact fishing practices and
build relationships between fishermen and community members.”
Walking Fish, now in its fourth year, distributes weekly in the Durham
area during fall, winter and spring and, depending on the season, has
between 300 to 600 subscribers.
Educating customers about lesser known species like jumping mullet and
trigger fish has helped make Walking Fish a success, Rice
“We’re doing everything we can to educate customers,” he noted. “It’s
all about direct marketing.”
That includes helping customers learn how to prepare various species.
Members of Carteret Catch, Rice, and Fishtowne have been featured on
the group’s YouTube channel offering tips like filleting techniques.
For Dorothy Killingsworth, Dare County’s public information officer and
the new board president of North Carolina Catch, raising public
interest in the rest of the state about locally caught seafood will be
the key in expanding the work of the state’s catch organizations and
seeing enterprises like Walking Fish move into other cities and towns.
The umbrella organization was set up last year to tie the work of the
local-catch groups together and develop an overall brand that can open
up bigger markets.
Although each group represents a unique fishing community,
Killingsworth said there’s an understanding that getting the message
and, eventually, the products out to the rest of the state and beyond
will require a larger, coordinated effort.
Killingsworth said the addition of volunteers with Brunswick Catch
means that the group now has representation in the south, north and
central regions of the coast.
“The energy is incredible,” she said.
This year, the new organization will focus on gathering sponsorships
and trying to secure funding to launch a marketing campaign. The
long-term goal is to build infrastructure and distribution in the state
and then expand regionally.
Mike Johnson, a Dare County commissioner who worked with Killingsworth
to set up Outer Banks Catch, said he’s convinced that there’s a strong
demand in places like Charlotte and the Triad for locally caught
seafood. It’s just waiting to be tapped.
At the Morehead summit, he recounted a conversation with the CEO and
top executives of Harris-Teeter about the logistics of getting fish
into their stores. Major chains are following consumer preferences, he
said, and adding their local offerings. The executives’ enthusiasm and
willingness to adapt gave Johnson some hope that new outlets could open
“Maybe we don’t need them as much as they need us,” he said.
story is provided courtesy of Coastal Review Online, the coastal news
and features service of the N.C. Coastal Federation. You can read other
stories about the N.C. coast at www.nccoast.org.)