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Island Dining: Pop’s Raw Bar and Grill
By JOY CRIST
So where do you go in the middle of January, after a windy afternoon on
the beach, wearing an old flannel shirt, a pair of Wanchese bedroom
slippers, and a severe case of Hatteras hair?
The answer is Pop’s, of course. You’ll fit right in.
Not for the fancy set, Pop’s Raw Bar and Grill has garnered a
devout local following by being a no frills, just fun restaurant in the
heart of Buxton. People flock to Pop’s because they want a good
burger and a good chat about local gossip, not because they want an
upscale fine dining experience. For that reason, Pop’s is
quintessentially Hatteras Island -- or any small town for that matter.
And because of the neighborhood feel and hospitality, the popularity of
Pop’s has grown, making the small local hangout an unlikely chain
with a second location now open in Elizabeth City.
Jack Quidley, the owner of Pop’s, has been a Hatteras Island
resident since 1948, and a fixture in the local restaurant scene
throughout the decades. In 1974, he ran the Hatterasman Drive-In in
Hatteras village, and in 1985, he moved on to the Lightship Restaurant.
Then Jack found himself with the opportunity to own his own restaurant,
not just the lease, and he built Pop’s. That was just 13 years
ago, though it feels like Pop’s has been a Hatteras fixture for
as long as there have been roads connecting the villages.
Peeking out along Highway 12 and seating only 40 people at a time, Jack
considers the small size of the restaurant a huge benefit.
“The size of the restaurant is on purpose. I wanted to keep the
food cost down, and I figured I could do that by keeping the labor cost
down,” says Jack. “And with a small restaurant, you only
need a couple employees.”
And folks keep coming back for the simple, good menu, with equally good
prices. Seafood standards are a favorite, from fishcakes to fried
shrimp baskets, but there’s also burgers, barbecue, and a fat
Philly cheese steak for meat lovers.
For first timers, Jack recommends a bowl of Hatteras clam chowder and
the steamed shrimp. “The steamed shrimp is our best
seller,” he says.
For 13 years, Pop’s has been successful, with occasional lines running out the door in the prime summer season.
“We’re busiest during the tourist season, but we have
a large local base. They’re my mainstay -- the foundation for the
business. They’re the ones that made it,” says Jack.
Because of the large local clientele, Pop’s in Buxton stays open year-round, 11 a.m. until 9 p.m., six days a week
And with Pop’s in Buxton enjoying such success, Jack decided to jump on another opportunity and open a second restaurant.
On Oct. 5, Pop’s Raw Bar and Grill officially became a chain.
“The reason I opened a second Pop’s was because I wanted to
bring local good seafood to other parts of North Carolina,” Jack
says.
The new Pop’s is now open in Elizabeth City, and while the menu
is identical, this Pop’s is much larger than the original, with
seating for about 108. “At first we had 250 people a night, but
it’s slowed down a lot now,” says Jack. “We had a few
bumps in the road at first, because we were overwhelmed by the amount,
but now we’re enjoying it.”
The Elizabeth City Pop’s also has a “train car” for
patrons, about 30 feet away from the main restaurant and with its own
kitchen, and guests can choose to eat in the restaurant or in the
neighboring train. “It seats 24 people, and it’s the neatest
thing around I’ve seen,” says Jack.
And since the opening, Jack has seen a few familiar faces from the
island. “I get people from Hatteras at least once or twice a week
coming in here. They already know the food, I guess, and I always
recognize them.”
But whether you’re closer to the Elizabeth City or the Buxton
restaurant, the good thing about Pop’s is that it will still be
the same old Buxton bar that everyone pops into once in a while for a
good meal, a couple beers, and a good conversation with the folks
around you.
“I think the reason people come, really and truly, is the way you
feel when you’re in there. You feel like you’ve known the
people who work there all your life. There’s always people
laughing, people picking on each other, and you feel like you’re
home,” says Jack.
“The casual dress helps too, I’m sure,” he adds.
“But in the long run, the good food and company brings them back.
Not the dress code.”
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